Karongo to Chitimba Bay (91km)

Malawi

Day 72 - Mar 25 - Stage 50

Saturday: It rained all night, but fortunately in the morning it cleared up. Starting to cycle in the rain is just not high on my list of happy moments!

We started riding and went straight into Town to draw more money at the ATM and to get a Malawi Sim card and data. Judith was lucky, I was not so fortunate (no micro-sim cards in stock) so I was still offline.

Cycled to lunch, just before lunch, Judith had her tire come off the rim.  Fortunately she was riding with Leo the Sweep Rider who is also our Bike Mechanic. He could assist her and fixed the puncture and placed the tire back onto the rim.

We were both not in a happy space, mentally or physically, so we climbed into the lunch truck, to get to Chitimba Beach for our two day rest period.

Driving towards Chitimba Beach in the truck, we came across an accident, a car had left the road at speed and had overturned. The locals had pulled the survivors onto the verge of the road and there were quite a few injured bodies lying on the road. Wynand and I got out of the truck (I was riding in the cab with him) to see if we could offer assistance, but there was nothing we could do, other than to organize for an Ambulance to come from Karonga.

There was a badly injured little girl, who I thought wouldn't make it, subsequently I became rather emotional on the remainder of the drive into Camp. I know nobody gets off this planet alive, but children shouldn't have to leave so early!

Stopped along the way to buy some accessories for the planned evening's Fancy Dress Party, and even managed to get a Malawian micro-sim card.

Finally arrived at Chitimba Beach Camp, after a very tough and mentally draining fortnight of riding. It is going to be a great two days rest.


The Fancy Dress Party was well attended, with some of the riders going to great extremes with their costumes. I went as a Zambian Soccer Player, while Judith went as a "Message" (Playfully mocking the American & Canadian Riders).  Her T-shirt read, "In America they call it 'Survivor', in Africa we call it Camping!".

Cheers,
Mike T 

Riders discussing the merits of a Coke Stop

Malawi Gin Distilling Company

Fishing Village on Lake Malawi

Village on the way to Chitimba Beach

Welcome to Chitimba Beach

Chitimba Beach Rules

Judith making new friends...

Judith discussing the Malawian political situation with Berndt

Relaxing on arrival at Chitimba Beach

Judith's Fancy Dress outfit

The Treloar's Snr all dressed-up and ready to party

Chef Errol preparing the evening's roast beef dinner

Tallis & Muli preparing the evenings vegetables 

Liz and Marie the Two Tsetse Fly's won the "Best Dressed" award

Niklas flanked by the two Maasai Farrows

Rupert the winner in the "African Section"

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Mbeya to Karonga (162km with 1'130m ascent & 2'360m descent)

Tanzania & Malawi

Day 71 - March 24- Stage 49

Monday: Today we left the rolling hills of Southern  Tanzania and swooped down once again into the Great Rift Valley and crossed another Border, from Tanzania into Malawi. The contrast between the two countries was immediately apparent.

On the Malawian side and only 635 km to Lilongwe Capital of Malawi

It was not an easy day, after 12km we were supposed to turn right for the Malawi Border. At this point, I was involved in an altercation with a minibus-taxi, the driver of which had deliberately tried to run me off the road at the busy intersection. I was distracted just long enough to miss the turn off, rode for an extra kilometer before I realized my mistake, had to ride another kilometer back to the turn off!


At a distance of 16km, we encountered a  major climb out of the Mbeya area into the surrounding mountains, I made it up the climb,  but not before stopping on numerous occasions to catch my breath! 

Lunch was at the 69km mark, Judith had taken the Lunch Truck in the morning and her and Marie had cycled from the lunch position to the Border Post and then on to Camp. So I had a quick lunch and pushed on to the Border which was still 45km away.

Close to the Border, I had my last Coke Stop in Tanzania with a few of the other riders, then we cycled to the Tanzanian Border Post.


There were no issues at the Tanzanian Border Post, but on the Malawian side, true to form, those riders who needed visas to get into Malawi were delayed, while the South African Citizens went straight through without any hassles.

Liz and I teamed up and left most of the other TDA riders just hanging around waiting for things to happen. However as soon as we were cycling on the Malawian road, cries from the locals went from, "Jambo, Jambo" (Good morning, good morning) by the Tanzanians, to "Give me money" or an even better cry of "Give me MY money" by the Malawians, especially the kids.

Rode for at least 20km with a local cyclist called Samson, and we had a long conversation, as we discussed the political situation in Malawi. We both came to the conclusion that economically, things would never get better in Malawi, not unless there was a major intervention by Government,  which was never going to happen.

Malawi has so much going for it as a tourist destination, especially since 21% of it is taken up by Lake Malawi. But unlike the East African countries of Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda and Tanzania, the Governments of which aggressively market their tourist potential, the Malawi Government is quite happy to continue with the status quo.


While cycling with Samson,

I came across a new TDA Sectional Rider who was giving money to some kids (handing out US$ one dollar bills). With visitors having an attitude like that, how are the Malawians ever going to get out of their "Begging Mode".  I was not impressed and tossed my toys out of the cot at him.

The overnight camp at Safari Lodge Annex on Lake Malawi has definitely seen better days, but we took a room to keep out of the rain.

Arrived at the finish and first reported in, then cycled into Karonga Town with Andje to draw local Malawian currency (Kwatcha) at a Standard Bank ATM.

Unfortunately we received some bad news, Joyce, the Mother of Judith's Sister-in-law Mandy, had passed away. We used the Satellite phone and phoned Mandy to give her our condolences. It is at times like this, that you feel quite isolated from one's family. 


Only a relatively short 90km ride tomorrow, then two days rest on the shores of Lake Malawi at Chitimba Beach. Off to sleep after enjoying a few green bottles of Malawi Carlsberg (locally known as "Malawi Greenies"). 

Cheers,
Mike T


PS: We were woken up in the night by some heavy rain, and hoped it would subside by the morning. Not long till we found out.

Climbing into the rolling hills of the East African Rift Valley

Mbeya Town as we cycle out towards Malawi

Locals washing carrots in the stream prior to transporting them to Market

Leaving the Metropolis of Mbeya as seen from the surrounding hills

Phillip at the Lunch Truck stop before reaching the Tanzanian/Malawi Border

Passed some heavy traffic on the way to the Border

Andje, Phillip and Tom at the last Coke Stop in Tanzania at the Junction Lodge

Junction Lodge

Land Rover - Opening up Africa for the others to follow :P

Liz passing into Malawi after the Border Post

Camp at Safari Lodge Annex - Max discussing issues with the Riders

Tonight's Briefing Karonga to Chitimba Beach.
We're on dishes duty!

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